Taipei: surviving Typhoon Sinlaku

My excitement in coming to Korea was increased by the prospect of popping across to other parts of Asia while my geographical position was favourable. Luckily other people shared this peripateticism and on Saturday morning four of us jetted out to Taiwan. Lovely, subtropical Taiwan, I thought prior to leaving, with its palm tree-lined streets and average September temperature of 31C. Upon boarding the plane we were informed that we may experience some turbulence on landing owing to the massive typhoon that was battering north-eastern Taiwan. Great.

After a surprisingly smooth landing (our pilot was called Peter Parker, that would be why) we disembarked and saw the Taiwanese palm trees, only they were blown horizontal in force twelve winds as raindrops twice the size of ordinary precipitation battered the windows. Nothing was open on the Saturday afternoon we arrived. The first hotel we arrived at had slightly over the top storm defences covering their glass entrance, and it took a while to find somewhere to eat, at last deciding on something familiar from Korea: Shabu Shabu. I got through three umbrellas in three days, wetter than I've ever been in clothes, and at times, thoroughly pissed off. Got a bit of a cold too, though it could've been worse. Google "Typhoon Sinlaku video". Yeah not far away from the capital, bridges were collapsing, a hotel was floating away and there were quite a few fatalities. Like I say, I'll take the cold.

Tuesday saw the sun come out and it was quite nice, though we were on the bus to the airport just after lunch. Conclusion? I'm not going back. The thing I was most looking forward to was visiting the world's tallest completed building, the Taipei 101. Guess how many floors it has. The observation floor (also the highest anywhere) was on the 89th floor, but the poor visibility made it a let down. The view was not good when we arrived and only deteriorated until it felt like we were in some sort of milk aquarium. A trip in the world's fastest lift was fun though. Eighty-nine floors in 37 seconds. It takes about the same length of time to ascend seven floors in our school building. To end on a positive note, the Taiwanese people are very nice, and interestingly speak better English than the majority of Koreans in the service industry. It was a novelty for me to have a conversation with the waitress or the bar staff!

Something struck me when I returned to my apartment too: it was nice to be home. Yeah, home. This is very much my home now - for the next nine and a half months or so anyway. I feel very comfortable, very at ease in my surroundings. It's good.

Our next holiday will be the very carefully nomenclatured Japan-demonium on Christmas eve. The countdown begins.

Olympic fever

Korea loves Olympics. Maybe it's a consequence of the 1988 games, which if you don't know were held here in 1988, but they are hard to avoid. For me this is a good thing: I love Olympics. I love watching sports I've never heard of, I love flags. Everything... I ignore the politics. People watch the games on the subway on their TV phones, shops have portable TVs behind the counter or outside on a pile of crates, which allows a crowd to form during a really tense point in the ping pong or something. You can watch weightlifting while you eat your galbi or go for a drink and watch some badminton. In fact badminton won out over the Premier League in the local sports bar. Given how popular English football is here I was quite surprised.

Interesting thing is though, every single one of my kids, boys and girls, age 5-11, are transfixed by the games. They can name pretty much all the Korean medal winners, from swimming to archery to women's weightlifting. All of them can. I have to repeatedly stop them from talking about Park Tae Hwan and Chang Mi Ran and get back on topic. I can remember the Barcelona Olympics when I was seven, and maybe watching Linford Christie and Sally Gunnell, but doubt I was aware of what was going on elsewhere. I'm impressed anyway - I think it's good that these guys are aware of what's going on in the world. I made a bet with a kid last Thursday that GB would end up above Korea in the medals table. I was starting to get a bit scared before the weekend, but it's looking better now. Mmmmm.

Feeling olympicsy, I wandered down to the Seoul Olympic Park on Saturday. It being Saturday, it rained. Here are some pictures.



I did say my kids are aware of world issues. Well, not in all aspects. Having read a picturebook about how everyone in the world is fundamentally the same and that, I discussed with my advanced kindergarten class different parts of the world. I asked what people were like outside of Korea, and my kids talked about Britain, America, China and um, Guam. When I brought Africa up, little Jenny piped up: "People from Africa are very very very different and they are dark and I don't ever want to meet them because I don't like them." Had to nip that little bit of racism in the bud...

Here are two of Korea's biggest Olympic heroes: Park Tae Hwan (weiring the world's greatest shorts) and Jang Mi-ran (big weightlifting lady).
One way to humiliate a badly behaved boy is to accuse him of being in love with Jang Mi-ran. One way to embarrass a badly behaved girl is to accuse her of having a crush on Park Tae Hwan. :D

Rain

It's wet season. I have seen some sun since I've been here, and always when I'm in a classroom, but the sky has generally been monotonously grey and ominous. What's mildly irritating is that it's rained both days of all three weekends since I've been here, so whenever I've been out looking at/for stuff, I come back clammy and unfulfilled. Can't say I've seen Seoul in the best light yet. Literally.

This was the demoralising view from my window on Saturday morning:


Today, I boarded the subway intending to go one stop to Nowon, because I hadn't been there during the day and sober yet, and it's just on my doorstep. It was actually even a bit sunny when I left. Umbrellaless, on arriving at Nowon I saw the rain tipping down and stayed there on the nice dry train. So, plan B. Except I didn't have a plan B, so I kept sitting. I eventually ended up on the other side of the city at the World Cup stadium. This:


Plus, it worked: it wasn't raining here! Not much anyway.

Koreans really loved football for four weeks in 2002. It's still popular, but the interest has subequently waned, meaning there's little demand for a however-many-thousand-seater stadium. So they made it into another mall. I walked around it, thinking I might be able to have a look at the pitch or something, but unless I missed it, you can't. I did walk around the concourse surrounding the stadium, which was nice as it was only raining a bit, and for the first time pretty much ever in Seoul, I was all alone. Grey, wet solitude! Look!



The upshot of all this climactic inclemency is that I have a bastard cold. My health's not exactly been complimented by the lifestyle either though. Alongside eating lots of spicy food and junk and few vegetables, realising too late that I'd eaten month-out-of-date noodles was quite unpleasant. Couple this with the regular needless all night benders that I'm slowly getting used to here, means that I'm glad I brought all the drugs with me... Mmmm Strepsils.

Oww, negative talk. OK, it's mainly the weather that's causing this mild ire. Despite all that complaining I'm still enjoying it all. This could change: from Monday for a month the older kids are on school holidays. This means they still come to us in the afternoon, but also in the morning, so we all have several extra classes to teach every day. Overtime though. Think of all the lovely wons.

Lastly, spare a thought for all the people at Seoul mud festival this weekend. I can't decide if lots of rain is good or bad for a festival of mud.